Day 3 –
Awaking comfortably with the heat from the generator still warming our CV, the weather looked ominous as we made our way to Vestahorn. This was a recommendation of Guido and Tom who had taken a marvelous picture of it on the morning that we met them. We drove up to the building at the entrance to the park that had a cafe. It was about 8 AM so they were still closed. However, more importantly in a cabin off to the side of the main building was a bathroom. And a shower! It had been three days since I had showered so I made quick use of the very hot waters that flowed from the shower head. Sadly, Anthony didn’t shower. Even more sad was that we weren’t greeted with the same spectacular skies Tom and Guido had just a day earlier. Our morning was foggy with a very low ceiling. But that didn’t stop us from climbing over mounds of lava rock that had been made into black sand dunes and a long beach over many millennia. Knowing the skies wouldn’t part for us, we got back in the van and I drove us along Route 1 toward Vik where we had decided to make it for the night.
As we headed west we noticed off to our right the sharpest of turquoise blue snaking through the black mountains but beneath a blanket of white. We had found a glacier that wasn’t on the map and we headed for it. Only one set of tire tracks laid on our path. After a couple of kilometers we found the end of the road. And then we set out on foot for a glacier we would have all to ourselves. For a couple of hours we were lost in its beauty and its awesomeness. It was heaven in a way. In the middle of nowhere we had found ‘The Beach’ but on this journey no one died or was shirtless. “The Glacier” called out to us. We followed its beckoning call. And very happy we did. Getting some drone footage, great photographs and sitting in silence for minutes at a time, Anthony and I were surprised no one else had made their way down that long road that led to such a beautiful and rewarding end. However, getting back in our CV and heading back to the main road we realized why no one had ventured as we had toward this turquoise blue diamond formed by natures masterful hand. The fog and mist had settled in so thick that you could no longer see it from the road. In a way I knew that was The Glacier’s way of calling out to only have us visit and spend quality time with him.
Leaving our new friend behind the mystery of the mist, the snow and sleet rained down on us. It fell heavy upon us and wouldn’t relent at our next stop. Pulling up to Jokulsarlon we questioned whether we should brave it or not. Decision made. We ventured into the cold, the now pouring rain and the mud. Defogging my glasses in order to see clearly it’s a spectacular sight to behold for sure. Huge chunks of ice breaking off from a nearby glacier and floating their way out to the Atlantic Ocean can make for an amazing site. Even in pouring cold and freezing rain. After 10 minutes we had just about had enough. We needed to dry and thaw out. The CV was calling our names with both warmth and dry shelter.
Leaving Jokulsarlon we made our way toward Hof, past Kalfafell and Kirkujubaejark-something, we made it into Vik in good time. Knowing we wanted to start day 4 somewhere awesome we pressed on past Vik to Skogafoss. The pictures of this waterfall made us want to start our day in epic style. But first we needed food. Stopping to fill up with gas, never letting our tank go below a half tank, we decided to eat at the restaurant inside the convenience store. An “Icelandic Hot Dog please, yep, with everything.” My first one. It was good and it cured the growling in my belly. Our CV would settle at a campsite near the foot of Sir Skogafoss. Opening our doors you could hear its pounding water falling a hundred meters to the river below. Nestling up next to a structure with full bathrooms and showers, we settled in for an early night. We wanted our last full day to be an early one as we had much to see.
But I still couldn’t get the majestic beauty and that turquoise blue out of my mind.